Get the Look in the Perfect Suit
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Look Smart in the Perfect Suit

Look Smart in the Perfect Suit

Vintage SuitA suit creates an entire look so you must think of it as a whole greater than the sum of its parts. Getting the balance right between the tops and bottoms together is the key to the perfect suit.

Getting the Balance Right

Make sure at least one part of the suit is close fitting – not snug or tight, just well fitted to show your shape. So a flare skirt goes beautifully with a fitted jacket.

As a suit creates a straight vertical look be sure to keep the lines long and flat so avoid skirts or pants puffing or flaring out. Keep the lines flowing smoothly from each other. So with a pant suit with long narrow trousers wear a long jacket to keep the long lines.

Keep the long, elegant look of the suit by paying attention to the lines of the outfit from shoulder to hem. Work with the rule of thirds with two thirds being either the top or the bottom in length – avoid cutting your figure in half by using the two thirds rule. So have short over long for full looks or long over short for narrow looks.

Remember the outfit is there to flatter you so carefully consider the effect of the outfit with your individual figure to get the best results for you.

For Curvy Figures look for: Fluid, flowing fabrics that enhance your curves. Shapely jackets that draw attention to your waist. Fitted pieces that show your figure but make sure they aren’t tight. Lines that show off your waist while also creating height. Avoid boxy, straight up and down lines. Wrap style tops that are fitted but not tight.

For Round Middle with Thin Legs look for: Lengthen your look with vertical lines and attention to detail. Emphasis your legs with slim fitting bottoms - pantsuits are great with vertical detailing such as pressed centre leg seems. This draws the eye and creates the longer look. Jackets need to be semi-fitted for form and structure to show your curves while buttoning needs to start above the waist to create length. Avoid tops, jackets and belts that cinch at the waist as they shorted the length.

For Short-Waisted with Long Leg Figures look for: Lines that will make your waist look longer like long jackets that go below the waist and even down to your knees. Choose jackets that have movement in the fabric so they take attention away from the waist. Make the best of your long legs with narrow pants or skirts that show off the length of your legs. For your torso make it look longer with clean, vertical lines above your waist so vertical stripes, long lines to jacket lapels, solid colours and long necklaces.

For Long Waisted and Short Leg Figures look for: Skirts that lengthen the look of your legs with narrow bottoms and no trim or emphasis on the hem as you want to keep the look of the line going, not to break it up. Jackets need to be either short or high-waisted to create length for your legs. Pants show where your legs start so avoid low waisted pants and be careful of the look of the vertical line if choosing a pant suit. Avoid horizontal lines as they will shorten the look so keep to long, clean lines.

For Large Top and Small Bottom look for: Jackets that bring attention to your waist that are cropped, narrow at the waist and have slimming shoulders – so no shoulder pads. Jackets need to drape rather than have structure to create a more simple line. Bring attention to your legs with slim cut pantsuits. Lengthen the look of the torso with vertical lines above the waist. Keep the torso lines simple with solid colours and long, narrow collars.

For Small Top and Large Bottom look for: Bring attention to your top with accessories, colour, pattern or jacket detail. Shorter or fitted jackets that focus on your waist. Tops with horizontal lines and details over the bust. Jackets with wider lapels or collars to create width. Jackets can also have some shoulder padding but it needs to be carefully balanced with the waist line so it looks in proportion rather than just looking bigger. Skirts and pants need to be kept simple so as to allow the top to have the attention so look for straight bottoms or flowing fabrics to diffuse the lines.

Tip: When you’re buying a top to go with a suit make sure it matches the suit perfectly, tucks in easily so it keeps the clean lines you’re working towards and doesn’t bulge or come out. Either buy the top at the same time as the suit or take the suit along with you when you’re shopping for the perfect top.

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